Munnar Tea Plantations: A Journey Through the Emerald Hills
Munnar is more than just a hill station; it is a sprawling green tapestry woven with the history and aroma of the world’s most beloved beverage. Tea, or Chai, stands as the most widely consumed beverage globally, second only to water. In the heart of Kerala’s Western Ghats, Munnar has perfected the art of tea cultivation, turning rugged landscapes into world-renowned estates.
The Botany of Tea: Understanding Camellia Sinensis
The tea plant, scientifically known as Camellia sinensis, is a versatile evergreen tree with its ancient origins nestled in the mountainous regions between India and China. While left to nature, these trees can reach majestic heights, cultivation practices involve rigorous pruning to maintain them as manageable bushes.
There are three primary varieties of the tea plant that form the backbone of the global industry:
1. The China Variety (Camellia sinensissinensis): This is a hardy, small-leaved variety capable of withstanding cold winters and high altitudes. It grows up to nine feet (2.75 meters) and boasts an impressive economic life of over 100 years.
2. The Assam Variety (Camellia sinensisassamica): A single-stem tree that can reach 20 to 60 feet (6 to 18 meters) if left wild. In Munnar, regular pruning keeps it at a comfortable 4 to 5 feet. It has a productive life of about 40 years. When grown at high altitudes—similar to the elevations of Darjeeling but with the unique terroir of Munnar—it produces a brisk, golden liquor with fascinating floral notes sought after by connoisseurs worldwide.
3. The Cambodia Variety (Camellia sinensisparviflora): Standing at roughly 16 feet (5 meters), this variety is rarely cultivated in its pure form today but remains vital for creating natural hybrids that combine the hardiness of the China plant with the yield of the Assam plant.
Key Sub-Varieties Found in the Region: To ensure the best yield and flavor profile, planters often utilize specific sub-varieties, including:
• The tender, light-leaved Assam.
• The robust, dark-leaved Assam.
• Hardy Manipuri and Burmese types.
• The expansive, large-leaved Lushai.
• Specialized dark-leaved plants sourced from Upper Assam.
The Chronicles of Tea in Munnar: A Historical Legacy
The transformation of Munnar from a wild forest into a tea haven began in 1857. It started with a British Resident named John Daniel Munro. Interestingly, Munro did not arrive with the intention of farming; his mission was to settle a border dispute between the Kingdom of Travancore and neighboring states.
However, upon witnessing the ethereal beauty of the Munnar hills, Munro was captivated. He envisioned these slopes—once the domain of wild elephants—as the perfect cradle for plantation crops.
The Royal Grant and the First Clearings Securing the land was no simple feat. While the territory was under Travancore’s jurisdiction, it was the Jenmam (ancestral) land of the Poonjar Royal Family. Guided by KannanThevar, the tribal chief of Anchunadu (after whom the "Kannan Devan Hills" are named), Munro approached the Royal Family. After persuasive negotiations with RohiniThirunal Kerala VarmaValiya Raja, Munro successfully leased the land.
In 1879, the North Travancore Land Planting & Agricultural Society was established. Initially, the pioneers experimented with coffee, cardamom, and cinchona (used for quinine). However, after several trials and environmental challenges, the focus shifted exclusively to tea.
The Pioneers: From Sharp to Tata While Munro provided the vision and A.W. Turnor began the initial clearings, the honor of planting the first tea sapling in Munnar goes to A.H. Sharp in 1880. He began cultivation on a 50-acre plot at Parvathy, which today forms part of the Sevenmallay Estate.
The industry saw a massive shift in 1895 when Finley Muir and Company purchased 33 estates. By 1897, the Kannan Devan Hills Produce Company (KDHP) was formed to manage these vast holdings. The 20th century brought further evolution:
• 1964: The Finley Group joined forces with the Indian global giant, the Tata Group.
• 1983: Tata Tea Ltd was officially formed, bringing modern technology to ancient slopes.
• 2005: In a landmark move, Tata Tea transferred its rights to the workers. The Kannan Devan Hills Plantations Company Pvt Ltd (KDHP) was formed, creating a unique participatory management model where employees are the shareholders.
Today, this legacy continues as Munnar remains the largest tea-producing hub in South India, yielding approximately 21 million kilograms of high-quality tea annually.
Exploring Munnar: The Tea Tourism Experience
Munnar and tea are synonymous. A journey to this "Kashmir of South India" is incomplete without immersing yourself in the emerald-green lifestyle of the plantations.
The Tata Tea Museum (Nallatanni Estate)For those who wish to step back in time, the Tea Museum is an essential stop. As India’s first-ever tea museum, located at the Nallatanni Estate, it houses curios, photographs, and machinery that tell the story of the colonial era and the evolution of tea processing. Visitors can witness the transition from the rudimentary "roller" to the modern fully automated tea factory.
Plucking and Processing When you walk through the estates, you will often see "tea pluckers"—mostly women—skilfully selecting "two leaves and a bud." This precision ensures the premium quality for which Munnar tea is known. The fresh leaves are then taken to factories for:
1. Withering: Removing moisture.
2. Rolling: Breaking cells to release enzymes.
3. Fermentation (Oxidation): This determines if the tea becomes Black, Green, or Oolong.
4. Drying and Sorting: Categorizing the tea into grades like Dust, Pekoe, and SFTGFOP.
Why Munnar Tea is Unique
The secret to the flavor of Munnar tea lies in the elevation. Many estates sit at over 5,000 feet above sea level. The cool climate, misty mornings, and acidic soil create a "high-grown" tea that is light, brisk, and possesses a distinct floral aroma. It is often used in premium blends globally to add "lift" and "character" to stronger, maltier teas.
Plan Your Visit
Whether you are a tea connoisseur or a casual traveler, Munnar offers a sensory overload. From the refreshing taste of a hot cup of cardamom-infused chai at a local stall to the sophisticated tea-tasting sessions at luxury resorts, the "Tea Essence of Munnar" stays with you long after you leave.
Come and explore the undulating hills, breathe in the fresh mountain air, and discover the history of the leaf that changed the world.